Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
